Direct Answer
Fragrance allergen labelling in the EU is a threshold calculation, not an opinion: a listed allergen must appear by its INCI name in the ingredient list when its concentration exceeds the limit for the product type, and leave-on products carry a lower threshold than rinse-off products. The data comes from the fragrance house, which supplies the concentration of each allergen in the blend, and the OEM turns that into a labelling decision. A private label buyer should ask three things before a fragrance is locked: the full allergen declaration from the fragrance house, the threshold that applies to the specific product type, and the final INCI list with any required allergen names inserted. Because fragrance is the most common contact-allergy trigger in cosmetics, getting this wrong is a compliance defect and a consumer-safety issue in one line of text.
Opening Hook
A brand launched a scented body cream across Europe with a clean, short INCI list and a single word, "Parfum," covering the fragrance. The label looked elegant and the product sold. Then a distributor flagged that the cream was a leave-on product, and the fragrance blend contained listed allergens above the leave-on threshold — allergens that should have been printed by INCI name in the ingredient list. The brand had trusted a generic label template instead of the fragrance house's allergen declaration. The batch was relabelled at cost. At ubitglow, the allergen declaration is pulled from the fragrance house at formulation and matched to the product type, so the label is correct the first time it is printed.
The Threshold Logic Behind the Label
Allergen labelling is a threshold decision, and the threshold depends on the product type.
| Product Type | Threshold | Consequence |
|---|---|---|
| Leave-on cream | Lower | More allergens reach labelling |
| Leave-on serum | Lower | More allergens reach labelling |
| Rinse-off cleanser | Higher | Fewer allergens reach labelling |
| Wash-off scrub | Higher | Fewer allergens reach labelling |
| Fragrance-free | None | No fragrance allergens present |
Data: EU cosmetics rules require that fragrance allergens from a defined list be declared in the ingredient list when their concentration exceeds set limits for leave-on or rinse-off products, with the list and thresholds updated over time.
Judgment: Ask for the product-type-specific threshold decision, because the same fragrance that is compliant in a cleanser can be non-compliant in a cream, and a single label template misses that difference.
Source: European Commission — EU Cosmetics Sector and Allergen Labelling (2024)
The EU and UK compliance guide covers the labelling framework this decision sits inside, and the EU market entry guide walks through the notification steps that accompany a compliant label.
Where the Allergen Data Comes From
The fragrance house is the source of truth, and the OEM is the translator.
| Party | Provides | Delivers |
|---|---|---|
| Fragrance house | Allergen concentrations | Allergen declaration |
| OEM | Threshold application | Labelling decision |
| Safety assessor | Safety report input | PIF support |
| Brand | Final label sign-off | Market responsibility |
The INCI Naming Requirement
Allergens appear in the ingredient list by their INCI name, and the placement matters.
| Rule | Requirement | Common Error |
|---|---|---|
| INCI naming | Allergen by INCI name | Using common name |
| Threshold trigger | Only above limit | Listing all allergens regardless |
| Parfum declaration | "Parfum" for the blend | Hiding allergens in Parfum |
| Order | Descending concentration | Incorrect order |
Data: Ingredient safety assessments document the sensitization potential of fragrance ingredients, which is the safety basis for why certain allergens must be disclosed to the consumer on the label.
Judgment: Treat the allergen declaration as a safety disclosure, not a marketing inconvenience, because the consumer who needs to avoid an allergen reads the label to protect themselves, not to judge the packaging.
Source: Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) — CIR Ingredient Safety Assessments (2024)
The List Has Grown Beyond the Original 26
The allergen list is not frozen, and a buyer who learned "26 allergens" once may be behind the current requirement.
| Point | Detail | Buyer Action |
|---|---|---|
| Original list | 26 named allergens | Confirm current scope |
| Expanded list | Additional allergens added | Ask for latest list |
| Thresholds | Updated over time | Confirm current limits |
| Product type | Leave-on vs rinse-off | Confirm which applies |
A Fragrance Approval Checklist for Buyers
Before a fragrance is locked into a formula, six checks turn the decision from aesthetic to compliant.
| Check | Question | Red Flag |
|---|---|---|
| Allergen declaration | Full list from fragrance house? | No declaration supplied |
| Product type | Leave-on or rinse-off? | Threshold not applied |
| Threshold check | Any allergen over limit? | No calculation shown |
| INCI list | Allergens inserted correctly? | Allergens missing |
| Fragrance-free option | Is it truly free? | Hidden fragrance in blend |
| Documentation | Declaration archived? | No record retained |
Data: Cosmetic manufacturing-practice standards require that ingredients be identified and their concentrations controlled so the finished product's composition and label are accurate.
Judgment: Archive the fragrance house's declaration with the batch record, because the label's allergen line must be traceable back to the exact blend version used in that batch.
Source: ISO — ISO 22716 Cosmetics Good Manufacturing Practices (2024)
The filling and packaging compatibility guide covers how a fragrance interacts with the pack, a separate check that a scented formula must also pass.
Fragrance-Free and Hypoallergenic Claims
The words "fragrance-free" and "hypoallergenic" are claims with their own discipline, and they do not write themselves off the hook of the allergen list.
| Claim | What It Requires | Common Mistake |
|---|---|---|
| Fragrance-free | No added fragrance ingredients | Hiding a masking scent in the blend |
| Unscented | No detectable scent | Treated as fragrance-free |
| Hypoallergenic | Reduced sensitization risk | Asserted without evidence |
| Parfum declaration | Blend declared on the label | Allergens buried inside Parfum |
Data: Truth-in-advertising rules require that claims such as "fragrance-free" and "hypoallergenic" be truthful and substantiated, and the wording must match what the formula actually contains.
Judgment: Substantiate any fragrance-adjacent claim before printing it, because a product marketed as fragrance-free that contains a masking fragrance is a claim defect and a consumer-safety issue in one line.
Source: U.S. FTC — Truth in Advertising and Claim Substantiation (2024)
A buyer should read "fragrance-free" against the full ingredient list, not the marketing copy, because the allergen obligation follows the formula, not the slogan.
The Bottom Line
In one sentence a buyer can repeat: an EU fragrance label is a threshold calculation — a listed allergen appears by INCI name when it exceeds the limit for the product type, with leave-on products carrying a lower threshold. Pull the allergen declaration from the fragrance house, apply the product-type threshold, and archive the decision with the batch.
At ubitglow, the fragrance allergen declaration is matched to the product type at formulation, so the INCI list that ships is the list the regulation requires.